As I am approaching the end of the second decade of permaculture gardening and homesteading, it is time to reflect on lessons learned.
The main gardening lesson stands out: focus on growing plants that grow really well in your climate.
Abandon the dream of growing things that struggle in your region, in your soil or under your care. Allow others to grow these elusive delectables. If onions and watermelons thrive in your garden, then leave peppers and beans out, and focus on meeting your needs completely by growing enough good onions and ripe watermelons.
The basic approach to permaculture gardening
The other name of gardening self-sufficiency is inter-dependence. Self-sufficiency is often misunderstood, seen as an effort in which you meet all your needs, on your own. In reality, no such thing is possible or even necessary. Building community is by far more essential in achieving self-sufficiency than growing every possible vegetable in your garden. Trade with your friends, weave the net of inter-dependent connections in your bio-region, and that will bring you to self-sufficiency faster than you thought.
For me, onion is the crop that is over-abundant, happy and beyond easy. Onions like our climate, our soil, my very unfocused gardening approach (in which I lose interest in my plants once ambient temperatures begin to climb at the end of May)….. They like my drip irrigation system… And, my onions don’t mind being neglected. We have figured things out and know how to work together.
How many onions to plant?
In our household, with two adults and one young child, and with all the canning and cooking from scratch, 250-300 (planted) onions meet our annual needs. I say “planted” because I harvest less than I plant – there is attrition in the process (things die, fail to thrive etc). I harvest sometime in July-August, cure and store the bounty in a cool mudroom into mid March of the following year. Onions make it onto my shopping list for a few weeks in early spring.
How to plant onions?
Starting onions from seed is a job meant for the most organized, patient and focused gardeners with extremely well developed fine motor skills. Little onion plants are slow to germinate, seed is fast to lose its viability, the sprouts are thinner than hair, and it is during transplanting when most fatalities occur. Thin onion blades are easily overrun by weeds, and are very hard indeed to keep alive. Here comes the solution: buy so called onion sets – these are plants that have been grown into pencil-thin size, with fairly robust little bulb that is easy to handle, plant and keep alive. Onion sets have to be purchased from someone, but it is worth it! My favorite grower is Dixondale Farms, I recommend them highly.
Onion sets come in bundles, and they are easy to handle and plant. They are very tough, able to survive hard freezes and very cold soils (conditions they seem to like at the beginning of the season).
When to Plant Onions?
As soon as soil is workable after the darkest time of the year, it is time to plant onions. Depending on your region that can be in January or in March, sometimes in April. Planting onions early in season really worked out for me, they seem to get going strong in cool soils, and are posed for rapid growth and making sizable bulbs once the summer heat arrives. Onions don’t need to be protected from cold temperatures in the spring.
How to Grow Onions?
Onions seem to like average to rich garden soils (build your soil with compost, use mulch to keep weeds at bay). I garden organically, so there is not much that I know about correcting any soil deficiencies by any methods other than compost or overwintered goat manure. Nourishing your soil is a ticket for a happy garden, and happy onions.
Give them plenty of sunshine, and water. Keep weeds away. That is about all there is to say about specifics of growing onions. If you build conditions in which they thrive, they will thrive, most likely.
Onion Harvest
Onions ripen between midsummer (4th of July seems to be the earliest) and mid August. Of course you can eat unripe onions (that means their bulbs will be small, but the plant is still edible).
A ripe onion displays wilted top that falls flat to the ground. Once you see your onions collapse like this, it is time for harvest!
On a dry day it is ok to pull your onions and simply lay them on the ground to dry. Be sure it does not rain on them, though. If rain is possible, move onions to a covered location where there is natural air movement. Lay them out flat to cure. Curing takes some time, around 2 weeks or more – during this time onion stalks will slowly wilt and became frail. Onion skins will develop. Roots will dry out. Even onions with very thick “goose necks” will often cure beautifully in open air.
Onion Storage
When shopping for your onions, double check if they are storage type. I noticed that my favorite Dixondale Farms understates the storage capacity of their onions – i.e. they will say that a variety stores for 2 months when in reality it stores for 5! Their Yellow Candy is an excellent storage onion, that lasts into March (7 months)!
Onions with thick necks (such as Walla Walla) are not good storage onions – check your varieties so you know how to handle your bounty.
Thin well cured neck is key for storage success, no matter what the onion type.You cannot store onions that have failed to cure their necks – if the neck is still thick, then eat such onion soon. Onions store well in dry (35-45%) cool conditions. A frost-free garage, unheated mud room and the like are perfect locations for storing onions. Storing them away from any light is best, especially once the wheel of the year rolls past Midwinter and the day length begin to increase, the onions itch to sprout and will do so if any light is available.